Removing a rivet without a drill

Learn how to remove a rivet without a drill using simple, safe, and accessible methods for any DIY enthusiast.

Article updated on 10/12/2025

Need to take apart a piece fastened with a rivet, but don’t have a drill on hand? This situation is common in DIY or repair work, especially when dealing with metal, plastic, or bodywork components. Rivets are strong and durable fasteners specifically designed not to unscrew, which makes their removal a bit tricky, particularly without power tools.

Fortunately, there are several manual, simple, and effective techniques to remove a rivet without a drill. This detailed guide explains the different methods depending on the type of rivet, the precautions to take, and the alternative tools you can use.

In brief

Goal: Remove a rivet without a drill, quickly and without damaging the surface.
Suggested methods:
- Flathead screwdriver and hammer to lift the rivet head.
- Chisel or punch to cleanly cut off the head.
- Wire cutters or adjustable pliers to extract a protruding rivet.
- Gentle heating (soldering iron or lighter) for seized metal rivets.
Pro tips: Protect the surface with a cloth, stabilize the piece, and lubricate a stuck rivet.
Key point: A removed rivet should always be replaced with a new one.
Estimated time: 10 to 20 minutes, depending on the type of rivet.

Understanding how a rivet works

What is a rivet?

A rivet is a mechanical fastener used to permanently join two pieces together. It consists of a shaft and a head: the shaft passes through the materials, and its end is then deformed (or “peened”) to lock everything in place. Riveting thus creates a permanent joint, unlike a screw or a bolt, which can be removed.

The most common types are:

Solid rivet: used for metals and heavy-duty structures.
Tubular rivet: lighter, often made of aluminum or brass.
Pop (or blind) rivet: installed with a special rivet gun and usually removed by drilling.

Why is it hard to remove?

A rivet is not designed to be taken apart. Once installed, its base expands inside the material.
Without a drill, you need to weaken the rivet head or break the mechanical bond without damaging the surface.

Common mistakes include:

Striking too hard (which can deform the metal sheet),
Slipping with an unsuitable tool,
Tearing off the rivet head without freeing the shaft.

Solutions for removing a rivet without a drill

Even without power tools, there are several ways to remove a rivet. The choice of method depends on the type of rivet, the material, and the surrounding surface.

Method 1 – Flathead screwdriver and hammer

This is the most accessible technique, ideal for flat-headed rivets that are visible on the surface.

Required tools:

A sturdy flathead screwdriver
A hammer
Protective gloves and safety glasses

Flathead screwdriver

Ox Pro flathead screwdriver 4 × 100 mm

Magnetic tip
Non-slip bi-material handle
Hardened steel blade

~$6

Hammer

Stanley electrician’s hammer

Fiberglass handle
200 g head
Durable finish

~$18

Protective gloves

Ansell HyFlex 11-840 work gloves

Flexible fit
Nitrile coating
Abrasion-resistant

~$9

Steps:

Place the screwdriver blade under the rivet head.
Gently tap the handle with the hammer to insert the blade.
Carefully lever to lift off the head.
Once the head is removed, push the shaft inward using a punch or a nail.

Advantage: Requires no specialized tools.
Drawback: May scratch painted or delicate surfaces.

Method 2 – Fine chisel or punch

Suitable for solid or stuck rivets.

Required tools:

Flat chisel or cold chisel
Hammer
Stable support (vise or workbench)

Flat chisel

ValueMax set of 3 cold chisels

Three sizes (16 × 170 mm, 12 × 150 mm, 10 × 140 mm)
Chrome vanadium steel
Allows you to strike the rivet head from different angles

~$12

Cold chisel

Draper 19 × 250 mm cold chisel with hand guard

Length: 250 mm
Integrated hand guard
Hardened steel

~$9

Cold chisel

Am-Tech 460 × 20 mm cold chisel

Extra-long (46 cm)
20 mm section
Fine finish

~$14

Steps:

Position the chisel at the junction between the rivet head and the body.
Strike in a controlled manner to shear off the head.
Once separated, drive out the shaft using a punch.

Tip: A sharpened chisel makes for a cleaner cut, especially on soft steel or aluminum rivets.

Method 3 – Cutting pliers or adjustable pliers

Suitable when the rivet slightly protrudes from the surface.

Required tools:

Locking pliers, cutting pliers, or adjustable pliers
Protective cloth (optional)

Adjustable pliers

Stanley adjustable pliers

Sturdy steel body
Sliding adjustment mechanism
Non-slip bi-material handles

~$23

Precision adjustable pliers

Knipex Cobra adjustable pliers

Self-locking jaws
One-click easy adjustment
High-quality chrome vanadium steel

~$39

Locking pliers

Facom long-nose locking pliers

Long nose design
Locking mechanism
Trusted brand quality

~$72

Steps:

Grip the rivet head firmly.
Twist gently to loosen it.
If possible, pull straight out to remove the shaft.

Tip: If the rivet is rusty, apply a small amount of penetrating oil (like WD-40) and let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes before attempting removal.

Method 4 – Gentle heating (metal only)

This approach involves lightly heating the rivet to expand the metal, which can make extraction easier.

Required tools:

Soldering iron, mini blowtorch, or lighter
Pliers to hold the rivet

Blowtorch

Rothenberger industrial pocket torch

Powerful, adjustable flame
Compact and portable
Well-known for durability

~$29

Soldering iron

Dremel 2000-7 Versatip multifunctional soldering iron

Adjustable heat control
Can be used in flame or hot air mode
Compatible with various precision tips

~$54

Heat-resistant pliers

Jaws designed to withstand high temperatures
Insulated or heat-resistant materials
Lightweight design

~$9

Steps:

Heat the rivet head for a few seconds.
Let it cool slightly.
Use pliers or a screwdriver to remove it.

Caution:
Never apply this method to plastic, wood, or painted surfaces, heat can cause damage.

Pro tips for a clean and safe removal

Protect the surface around the rivet

Before starting, cover the work area with a thick cloth or masking tape. This helps prevent scratches and absorbs any accidental hammer blows.

Stabilize the piece

Work on a solid surface, ideally using a vise. A moving piece can throw off your chisel or screwdriver angle.

Lubricate if the rivet is stuck

If the rivet seems jammed, apply penetrating oil or lubricant and let it sit for a few minutes. The goal is to reduce friction between the shaft and the material.

Work in stages

Avoid trying to pull everything out at once. A gradual, methodical approach minimizes the risk of breaking or damaging the surface.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should a rivet always be replaced after removal?

Yes. A rivet is a single-use fastener. Once deformed, it loses its clamping strength and must be replaced with a new one, identical or equivalent.

Can a plastic rivet be removed without a drill?

Yes, and it’s often easier. Plastic rivets (used in automotive parts or furniture) can be removed with a screwdriver or a small puller. Gently lift the head to release the central pin.

What’s the difference between a rivet and a pop screw?

A pop rivet is a type of blind rivet that requires a special rivet gun for installation. Unlike a screw, it cannot be unscrewed, it must be removed either by drilling or by manual extraction.

How can you tell if a rivet can be removed by hand?

A rivet can often be removed manually if it protrudes slightly, is made of aluminum, or has a weakened head. Solid steel rivets, however, require more effort or a cutting tool.

Conclusion

Removing a rivet without a drill isn’t a difficult task — as long as you proceed methodically.
The techniques presented here — using a screwdriver, chisel, pliers, or gentle heating — allow you to remove most fasteners without relying on power tools.

To succeed:

Work slowly and with precision.
Protect the contact surface.
Adapt the method to the type of rivet and the material.

Final tip: Keep a small set of sturdy pliers and screwdrivers in your workshop; they’re often more useful than a drill when it comes to precision repairs.

Glossary

Chisel

A steel tool used for cutting, shearing, or notching hard materials such as metal. Used with a hammer, it allows you to cut off the head of a rivet.

Mini blowtorch

A small portable heating tool that produces a fine, controlled flame, ideal for locally heating a metal rivet without damaging the rest of the piece.

Nail / Punch

A metal rod used to drive out or expel the rivet shaft after the head has been removed. The punch, being more precise, is generally preferred for mechanical work.

Penetrating oil

A lubricating product (e.g., WD-40) used to loosen metal parts stuck due to rust, oxidation, or dirt.

Soldering iron

A heating tool used here to apply controlled heat to the rivet head to make removal easier.

Peening (or riveting)

The process of deforming the base of a rivet to create a second head, permanently locking the assembled parts.

Adjustable pliers / Locking pliers / Cutting pliers

Hand tools used to hold, clamp, cut, or extract mechanical parts. Adjustable pliers offer variable grip, locking pliers hold objects firmly in place, and cutting pliers cut through thin metal sections.

Drilling

The traditional method of removing a rivet using a drill. In this guide, drilling is replaced with manual alternatives.

Rivet

A mechanical fastener made up of a shaft and a head. Once installed, it permanently joins two materials by deforming its base. The main types are solid, tubular, and pop (blind) rivets.

Pop rivet (or blind rivet)

A rivet installed with a special tool, allowing fastening from one side only. Commonly used for thin metal sheets or automotive bodywork.

Solid rivet

A solid, non-hollow rivet used for strong metal assemblies.

Tubular rivet

A hollow, lighter rivet used for soft or thin materials (plastic, leather, aluminum).

Support surface

The area on which the rivet is mounted. It should be protected (with a cloth or masking tape) to avoid scratches or deformation during removal.

Rivet head

The visible part of the rivet, formed before or after installation, that holds the materials under pressure. This is the section to target when starting removal.